I
talked about turkey in my last blog post, so today I’ll have a quick wander
through the rest of what I think of as “Christmas” food. This is of course
biased by my upbringing and tastes.
Potatoes
Nicely roasted potatoes,
crisp on the outside and light and fluffy within, are my personal favourite
accompaniment to roast meat. They’re a relatively recent addition to the
popular diet in Europe, brought to Spain by the Conquistadors in 1536 and first grown in the UK in 1597.
Wild potato species occur throughout the Americas, from the United States to southern Chile. They were probably domesticated 7,000–10,000 years ago in present-day Peru and Bolivia. There are now about 5,000 cultivated varieties, 200 wild species and subspecies.
Brussell
Sprouts
Forerunners to modern
Brussell sprouts were probably cultivated in ancient Rome. Brussell sprouts as
we now know them were grown possibly as early as the 13th century in what is
now Belgium. The first written reference is from 1587. During the 16th
century, they enjoyed a popularity in the southern Netherlands that eventually
spread throughout the cooler parts of Northern Europe. They represent the love it or hate it aspect of Christmas for many. Personally, I'd be happy never to see one again, but there you go!
Cranberries
Cranberries are the fruit of low,
creeping shrubs or vines with slender, wiry stems and small evergreen leaves. The
berries are initially white, ripening to a deep red. Their
acidic taste can overwhelm the natural sweetness, which is why they’re almost
always sweetened.
Cranberries are a major
commercial crop in some American states and Canadian provinces, most are processed
into juice, sauce, jam, and sweetened dried cranberries. Cranberry sauce is
an indispensable part of traditional American and Canadian Thanksgiving
dinners and some European winter festivals. And my Christmas dinner!
Recently, the global “functional
food” industry has marketed raw cranberries as a "superfruit" due to
their nutrient and antioxidant content.
Christmas
Pudding
When I was a child, we
always had Christmas Pudding from a hand-written recipe tucked into an old
cookery book. Sadly, this has long been lost. I don’t suppose I’m unique in not
being keen on it as a youngster, but now rather enjoy it as my tastes have
changed.
It’s still often talked
about as “plum pudding” or “plum duff”, but it’s usually a boiled pudding with
dried fruit. The recipe brings together what traditionally were expensive or
luxurious ingredients, dried fruits, spices, candied fruits, sugar and treacle.
Until the 19th century, the English Christmas pudding was boiled in
a pudding cloth, which is why they’re often shown as round. The idea
of ball-shaped puddings were introduced from Scotland by King George I (of
England) VI (of Scotland).
The new Victorian era
fashion involved putting the batter into a basin and then steaming it, followed
by unwrapping the pudding, placing it on a platter, and decorating its top with
a sprig of holly.
Eliza Acton, a cook from
East Sussex, appears to have been the first to refer to it as "Christmas
Pudding" in her 1845 cookbook, in a recipe familiar to us
today. Her cookbook was also the first to list set quantities of ingredients, an idea copied
ever since.
And “Mrs Beeton” obviously copied a lot of Eliza’s recipes
into her own, better known book. Isabella Beeton (1836 – 1865) was the wife of the publisher of The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, which first published what became the Book of Household Management in instalments.
Mince
Pies
The ingredients for the
modern mince pie can be traced to the crusades, when Middle Eastern methods of
cooking, combining meats, fruits and spices, became popular.
In Tudor England, shrid
pies were made from shredded meat, suet, dried fruit and spices like cinnamon,
cloves and nutmeg
In 1615, Gervase Markham wrote a recipe telling us to take "a leg of mutton", and cut "the
best of the flesh from the bone", before adding mutton suet, pepper, salt,
cloves, mace, currants, raisins, prunes, dates and orange peel. Beef, beef
tongue, veal or goose were also used.
Um, okay, I'll give it a go. After you...
By Victorian times, the fruit and spice filling might be prepared months before use and stored in jars,
and meat was rarely used (although the use of suet
remains).
Sugar
and Spice and All Things Nice
Historically, sugar,
spices and dried fruits were very expensive luxury items.
Cane sugar was first produced
in New Guinea about 8000 years ago. It spread to India, Persia and then to the Mediterranean.
It was grown in Spain and Portugal in the fifteenth century, then taken to the
New World. The trade in slaves from Africa started largely to help sugar
production in the Caribbean and South America.
Brown sugar (light, dark
or demerara) is ordinary granulated sugar coated with molasses, a viscous
by-product from processing sugar cane, grapes or sugar beets into sugar.
Treacle is any syrup
made during the refining of sugar. The most common forms of treacle are a pale
syrup known as golden syrup, and a darker syrup usually referred to as dark
treacle or black treacle.
Pub general knowledge quiz
trivia bonus! The first patent for sugar cubes was granted to Jakub Kryštof Rad
in 1843.
Technically speaking, spices
are aromatic or pungent flavourings made from the hard parts of some tropical
and subtropical plants. Valued for culinary and medicinal uses, they’ve been widely
traded for thousands of years. Bill Bryson talks about the spice trade in his
entertaining book “At Home”.
The typical “Christmas”
spices are nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon and cloves. Nutmeg comes from the seeds of
the tropical evergreen tree. Cloves are the dried flower buds of a tropical
evergreen tree in the myrtle family. These two were originally found on just a
handful of islands in the Moluccas, an archipelago of 16,000 islands in the Far
East. Ginger is a root originally grown in India and China. Cinnamon is the dried
inner bark of shoots of a tropical bushy evergreen tree of the laurel family, native
to India, Sri Lanka and Myanmar.
Raisins are dried
grapes. Here in the UK, we use the word for large dark-coloured dried grapes,
sultanas for the golden-coloured dried grape, and currant for the small Black
Corinth dried grape. The word raisin, meaning grape, was adopted into Middle
English from Old French.
Oranges (or sweet
oranges if you’re fussy) probably originated in South-East Asia and were being
cultivated in China around 2500 BC. They were brought to the Mediterranean in
the late 15th and early 16th centuries.
Lemons may have first
grown in southern India. They were grown in Italy during the first century AD, widely
distributed around the Mediterranean and Arab regions by 1150 as ornamental plants.
The apple is one of the most widely cultivated tree fruits. They originated in western Asia and have been grown for thousands of years. There are more than 7,500 known cultivars of apple.
Merry
Christmas?
Finally, do you wish
others “happy Christmas” or a “merry Christmas”?
"Merry,"
derived from the Old English myrige, originally meant
"pleasant, and agreeable" rather than joyous or jolly. The first
known use of a specific greeting is 1565, in The Hereford Municipal
Manuscript: "And thus I comytt you to God, who send you a mery
Christmas."
"Merry Christmas
and a Happy New Year" is contained in the sixteenth century secular
English carol "We Wish You a Merry Christmas".
The word "merry" began to
take on its current meaning of "jovial, cheerful, jolly and outgoing"
in the 19th century. "Merry Christmas" in this context
was used in A Christmas Carol , written in 1843, and which was a very
popular book.
"Happy
Christmas" appeared in the late 19th century, a time where merry also
meant "tipsy" or "drunk”. This might have jarred with the Methodist
Victorian middle-classes and their ideas about wholesome celebrations.
Personally, I prefer
Merry Christmas, as I might imbibe the odd small sherry at some point. And it means I can also wish you a Happy New Year without repeating
myself.